Tuesday, October 11th, 2005. Native Aleutian hunters.
In their third straight day of rough conditions, Paul Mc Hugh and John Weed paddled to Fort Ross -a Russian colonial outpost on the Sonoma County coast, now a state historic park. Here is a passage:
The nearer we got to Fort Ross, the more I thought of native Alaskan paddlers, the first kayakers to set blade in these waters, 200 years ago.
These Aleuts treated their kayaks as living beings, full partners in voyages and hunts. They built them with lashed frames of driftwood and sea lion hide covers. I’ve paddled modern versions of such "baidarkas" — they slither over seas in a more sensuous, responsive manner than modern kayaks, which are built of tough, stiff plastic or fiberglass.
More than 100 Aleutian hunters and their baidarkas accompanied Ivan Kuskov, the wily Russian fur trader who established Fort Ross in spring of 1812. It was part of the southernmost thrust of the Russian empire, endgame of the czar’s conquests along the Pacific Rim.
Weed and I rounded the northern horn of Little Ruminatsev Cove. A redwood stockade of the rebuilt fort loomed high on the bluff. We heard a cannon boom. Blue smoke drifted above the sea. Tears came to my eyes. I thought of generations of voyagers welcomed to port by salutes.
For a second, I had to wonder whether the year was 2005, or 1805.
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